In the somewhat oversaturated and highly competitive world of fashion, it is not easy to build a successful brand, but it is even more difficult to create one which can withstand the test of time and continue to remain relevant, resonating with consumers for years, particularly after starting out with a cult piece. However, Han Chong has managed to do just this with Self-Portrait.

The Malaysian-born designer, who graduated from Central Saint Martins, launched his London-based contemporary label in 2013. It saw almost immediate success and, one design, the Azaelea dress, become an instant classic. It was worn by celebrities the world over and spawned countless copies on the high street. The dress – dubbed “an era-defining piece of clothing” by The Guardian at the time – put Self-Portrait on the map and helped to kickstart the mid-range designer market, which continues to boom to this day.

Celebrities wearing the Azaelea dress

What is so interesting about the Azaelea dress is that, although it undoubtedly became a cult item, it is still popular now, stocked in retailers worldwide. It was certainly a dress of the moment, but the ladylike elegance and flattering silhouette make the style timeless. The same can be said for so many of Self-Portrait’s most popular designs.

I am never guided by trends

“I never set out to design a ‘classic’ per se, but I have always believed in creating pieces that make women feel special, no matter the occasion,” he tells me. “When we see a strong response to certain styles, we like to keep them in our collections, updating them with new colourways, lengths and fabric variations, so that they always stay relevant.”

Meghan Markle wearing Self-Portrait in 2018

In many ways, Chong was ahead of the curve, choosing to design for longevity at a time where many other contemporary brands wanted to tap into that which was of the moment.

“One key principle in my approach to design is that I am never guided by trends – and in some ways, I think this has meant that I’ve been able to create collections that are more timeless by default.

Princess Beatrice wearing Self-Portrait to Wimbledon in 2021

“Timeless for me means a piece that defies a particular moment in time and can be worn again and again over the years, never feeling outdated. As long as my customer feels comfortable and confident in what she’s wearing, there is no risk of it going out of style.”

The best thing about the fashion industry is that it survives and depends on change

In 2022, this is very much the message of the day – to invest in what you know will serve you well for years, rather than giving in to fast fashion or passing trends, meaning that the Self-Portrait mantra has never been more relevant. However, that is not to say that the brand has not evolved, and that Chong has not been forced to move with the times, particularly lately.

Green cardigan

Lace dress

Printed dress

Chiffon dress

“The best thing about the fashion industry is that it survives and depends on change – changing seasons, changing trends, changing shopping behaviours, and it’s really key to lean into that,” he says. “The pandemic has been a great opportunity to adapt to the changing needs of our customers.”

Bella Hadid starring in Self-Portrait’s SS22 campaign

One of these changing needs has been how far comfort has become a priority in our wardrobes. Chong describes this as now a “crucial consideration” for his consumer, meaning that he is introducing more effortless and relaxed shapes into his collections, while he has also noticed his customer be more considered in their choices, wanting versatility from these items.

Alexa Chung wearing Self-Portrait in 2021

“I think one of the silver linings to the pandemic has been the opportunity we’ve all had to reflect and consider our purchases a little more. When it comes to our customers, we have seen that they are buying pieces for different occasions, dresses that can be worn day and night, for example. I’ve definitely noticed the shift and I am very proud of the better decisions we are all taking towards more responsible consumption across the board.”

Timeless for me means a piece that defies a particular moment in time

And, it is not just shopping habits which have seen a shift, but also the way designers are working. Self-Portrait, which traditionally put on a fashion show each season, has – like many other brands – used the pandemic to press pause on this way of revealing collections, and found more inventive ways to show them.

“The pandemic has proved that we don’t have to stick with the traditional methods of presenting our collections to audiences. We have tested lots of different ways of revealing them, and it has been great to bring the spirit of the season to life in a new and very direct way.”

Bella Hadid starring in Self-Portrait’s SS22 campaign

Going forward, Chong's aim is simple – he wants to continue to make women feel comfortable and confident in his designs, and says he will adapt to whatever comes next.

“Although it hasn’t always been easy, the ups and downs are all part of this incredible journey. One thing I’ve learnt is that you’ve just got to keep an open mind and adapt to whatever life throws at you.”

Shop Self-Portrait's spring/summer 2022 collection here.