Each print issue of Harper’s Bazaar features In the Market, a column highlighting the best new items of the season, shot exclusively behind the scenes in the Bazaar fashion closet. For the start of 2024, senior fashion and accessories editor Jaclyn Alexandra Cohen provides us an up-close look at the season’s best Mary Janes, all with modern updates.

Mary Janes are often thought of as a nostalgic, feminine alternative to ballerina flats or loafers, but this season, designers are adding details that make the old-fashioned shoe feel cool-girl approved. Think new toe shapes, such as Roger Vivier’s square version or Versace’s squared-off peep-toes, and new fabrics, like Phillip Lim’s sheer mesh flats or Loeffler Randall’s blue grosgrain.

As a result, there’s something for everyone, whether you’re planning to wear them with your favorite tailored separates to the office or layer them with a pop-of-color sock, jeans, and a cardigan for a day bouncing around the art gallery circuit with friends.

This season’s best designer Mary Janes were certainly a staple in the Bazaar fashion closet, for all our spring photo shoots and beyond. Below, I break down the 14 pairs that can take you into summer.

The Updated Classics

Mary Janes are defined by the strap across the top of the shoe, but from there, designers have lots of room to play around. Alaïa added metal embellishments, while Roger Vivier offered a crystal-adorned buckle. Meanwhile, Miu Miu’s literally elevated version comes with a block heel. For a more minimal look, Bally’s option takes a sturdier approach with a broguelike finish and pointed almond toe.

THE BLOCK HEEL

Miu Miu Mary Jane

THE EMBELLISHED STRAP

Alaïa Ballerina Flat

The MENSWEAR INSPIRED

Bally Glendale Mary-Jane

THE EMBELLISHED BUCKLE

Roger Vivier Très Vivier Babies Patent Leather Ballet Flats

the CLASSIC VELVET

Dôen Mary Jane Slipper

The Colorful Options

Mary Janes might make you think of well-behaved girls in matching school uniforms, but these flats have so much fun with color, they almost feel rebellious. Add some playfulness to your look with Versace’s Barbie-pink open-toed version, or try a more subtle take with Le Monde Béryl’s muted mustard. Or try Loeffler Randall’s pair in bright blue grosgrain, if you want to wrap your look in a bow.

THE MESH FLAT

3.1 Philip Lim ID Mesh Mary Jane

the MUSTARD VELVET

Le Monde Béryl Mary Jane

THE SATIN PEEPTOE

Versace Gianni Ribbon Open Satin Ballerinas

THE GROSGRAIN

Loeffler Randall Ginger Mary Jane Ballerina Flats

The Spring-to-Summer Whites

Contemporary white shoes feel fresh, and although I never stick to the old-school ‘Don’t wear white after Labor Day’ rule, I do like to save my white flats for the warmer months—when we can at least somewhat rely on the weather to help keep them as pristine as possible. From Chanel’s traditional cap-toe option to Sandy Liang’s classic ballerina take, white Mary Janes feel precious in an against-the-grain kind of way. Of course, we can always count on Pierre Hardy to give us the coolest style in soft leather, and on Tory Burch to introduce a surprising new take. If you can’t choose between embellishments, Jimmy Choo’s chunky-heeled version combines cap toes, mesh, and a pearl on the strap—combining all our favorite details into one perfect sunny-day shoe.

The CLASSIC CAP-TOE

Chanel Mary Janes

THE SOFT LEATHER

Pierre Hardy Trish Ballerina

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THE MESH BLOCK HEEL

Jimmy Choo Elisa 45

THE BALLET

Sandy Liang Mary Janes

THE T-STRAP

Tory Burch Mary Jane Ballet

Jaclyn Alexandra Cohen is Harper's Bazaar's Senior Fashion & Accessories Editor. Outside of the office she can be found downtown with her twin sister, figure skating somewhere or on the hunt for the perfect striped top. Follow her on Instagram @jaclynalexandra