Three days in New York City: A music-lover's guide
John Castro New York is the world capital of live music. LA might be home to some of the industry’s heavyweights, Beyoncé and Jay-Z included, but the Big Apple is where they come to play. In 2017, the city hosted 28,529 gigs and concerts; when it comes to quantity, NY has the edge.
But it’s not just numbers that make New York a music hub - there are few cities that boast the same level of musical diversity or audiences as open-minded. This fizzing, ceaseless and progressive urban sprawl - the granite valleys of Manhattan with its glittering, graphic skyscrapers - induce a mad rush of excitement ideal for artists to hone their work; anything is possible when the sway of hopefulness is that strong or when weirdness and individuality is so gamely encouraged. To parrot Joan Didion, everyone can remember when New York began for them and the feelings it inspired. It fosters an energy and vitality that’s catnip to creatives - even if the rent and competition here make it tough to fight your corner.
New York is where some of the world’s most famous artists began their career, from Michael Jackson, Debbie Harry and Ella Fitzgerald to Bob Dylan, Lou Reed and Run DMC. Bands just blow up after playing in NY. Hip-hop, disco, punk and new wave were born here, and jazz, blues and folk all grew in prominence under the watchful eye of the Manhattan skyline. Carnegie Hall, the Apollo Theatre and Radio City Music Hall are still among the world’s most hallowed music venues. As David Bowie, who called the city home, famously sang, “New York’s a-go go and everything tastes nice.”
Country, punk, jazz, blues, folk, rock or hip-hop, New York wants you to absorb its musical prowess. Here’s how:
DAY ONE
AM: Take a tour of Carnegie Hall
The historic Carnegie Hall boasts one of the most impressive performer lists in the world. Everyone from The Beatles to Jay-Z to Frank Sinatra have delivered shows here and, even now, to sell out at Carnegie is still viewed as a landmark feat in an artist or band’s career. Not only is it a music venue, but it also has a long-standing history with the arts. The studios above the hall also used to be home to a number of high-profile creatives, including Marlon Brando, Isadora Duncan and Agnes de Mille. Take a 60-75 minute guided tour round the building, learn about its hallowed history and hear stories about the world famous artists who have performed here. If you manage to bump into Gino Francesconi, director of archives, you’re in luck – his knowledge, enthusiasm and unrivalled tales of the musicians who have played here are slim to none.
Carnegie Hall, 881 7th Ave, New York, NY 10019,
PM: Eat lunch at a country music institution while watching a live set
Legendary Nashville country music destination The Grand Ole Opry opened a new venue in New York last November – a four-floor expansive space dedicated to Americana. To perform on the Opry stage is to country what Broadway is to theatre. So, with live music from 8am until 1am, there’s no shortage of country sounds to choose from. Eat lunch at its Southern-themed restaurant while watching one of the bands in action. Make sure you don’t miss the mini exhibition displaying memorabilia of iconic country artists from Dolly Parton’s sequinned pink dress to Johnny Cash’s white tuxedo jacket.
Opry City Stage, 1604 Broadway, New York, NY 10019
PM: Hear the conch shell be played
The Met has opened its first of four musical instrument galleries, starting with an homage to brass. This intimate exhibition spans two millennia to unite 74 unique instruments, from over-the-shoulder horns to pottery trumpets. The starring piece is the humble conch shell – which is regarded the first form of brass instrument. If you’re yet to be persuaded of its musical potential, ask one of the Met’s staff to give you a performance.
Met Museum, 1000 5th Ave, New York, NY 10028
Celebrate America’s most masterful songwriters at a truly spectacular venue
Matt Ray and Kat Edmondson perform at the Lincoln Center
Enjoy the talents of great American songwriters, both past and present, with an ongoing musical performance series called American Songbook. Spanning all from jazz and hip-hop to folk and country, be prepared for an evening of excellent music. The shows are held in one of three venues at the Lincoln Center, but aim for a show in The Appel Room, which is situated on the eighth floor with floor to ceiling windows offering impressive views over Manhattan. You truly will feel like Meg Ryan in a Tom Hanks 90s romcom. If you have time beforehand, don your finery for fine dining at nearby Grand Tier Restaurant – the truffle pasta comes highly recommended.
Until March 27, American Songbook, 10 Lincoln Center Plaza, New York, NY 10023
Stay at a former music hall
Continue the music theme at Loews Regency New York, one of Midtown Manhattan’s premium luxury hotels. Originally opened in 1963, the hotel was built on the site of Loews’ Lexington theater, the same site where Oscar Hammerstein, the grandfather of the beloved composer, had erected the Lexington Opera House in 1913. For true luxury, style and some great views of the skyline (and a snippet of Central Park), book the Uptown Bohemian Suite - the highly-Instagrammable roll tub bath alone is enough of a draw. Make sure you make time for the hotel's Regency Bar & Grill restaurant - its porcini truffle pizza is divine.
DAY TWO
AM: Do a hip-hop tour of the Bronx
The birthplace of hip-hop outside 520 Sedgwick Avenue in the Bronx
You don’t need to be a hip-hop fan to go on Hush’s tour of Harlem and the Bronx, but you’ll certainly have an appreciation for its influence by the end of the three-hour, immersive trip. The tour is led by hip-hop insiders - Reggie Reg, who was part of early influential hip-hop group Crash Crew, and his talented sidekick Rayza, showmen with infectious enthusiasm and a talent for MC and rap. You’ll be taken to landmarks of the genre – from the iconic Apollo Theatre to a high-rise in the Bronx that is widely considered the venue of the first hip-hop party. Find yourself participating in a dance-off in the middle of the Museum of the City of New York; rapping in unison on the coach and marvelling at the graffiti murals in Harlem and the Bronx.
PM: Eat lunch at Patti Smith and Bob Dylan’s favourite café
Caffe Dante has long served as the place to hunker down and drink coffee for artists including Patti Smith, Bob Dylan and Robert Mapplethorpe. Back in the 70s, when the surrounding Greenwich Village was a hive of bohemia and counter-culture, Dante was run by an Italian family who prided themselves on espressos and warm hospitality. Although the Flottas have since sold up, this intimate, yet welcoming space still offers a sense of history and an aperitivo menu.
Caffe Dante, 79-81 Macdougal St, New York, NY 10012
Explore the true importance of music and sound to our wellbeing
Music has a transformative power to alter or boost one’s mood, but Cooper Hewitt’s latest two exhibitions take our understanding of sound to the next level. Hear, See, Play: Designing With Sound looks at how the sounds we hear every day are constructed and how they inform and enhance our experiences. Access and Ability investigates how music can be used to improve disability or mental heath issues – from robotic dogs designed to alleviate loneliness to simplified music players used to help manage dementia. Combined, these two showcases illustrate how music and sound is vital to our cognitive and physical well-being.
Cooper Hewitt, 2 E 91st St, New York, NY 10128
Watch the talent show that made Michael Jackson famous
James Brown performs at the Apollo Theatre
The importance of Harlem’s famed Apollo theatre can’t be overstated – it was the first venue to allow black people to perform at a time when most African-Americans were forbidden from entering theatres. Ella Fitzgerald, James Brown and the Jacksons started their careers here; it was also on the Apollo stage that Biggie Smalls first introduced a then new artist called Jay-Z. Amateur night at the Apollo is one of America’s best-loved institutions – a talent competition over 80-years-old that makes X Factor look like an embarrassment. Lauryn Hill, Dionne Warwick and Michael Jackson all performed as a part of the contest to the notoriously tough audiences. For a night of pure abashed new talent, there is no better.
Apollo Theatre, 253 W 125th St, New York, NY 10027
DAY THREE
AM: Eat brunch to a jazz soundtrack in Harlem
Americans don’t do brunch food by halves – at Cecil Steakhouse in Harlem, classics such as eggs benedict are served with filet mignon, while avocado toast comes with Angus rib eye steak. From 12pm a jazz band plays, the perfect soundtrack to Mimosas and breakfast. For a true Harlem signature dish, try the homestyle waffles and fried chicken.
Cecil Steakhouse, 210 W 118th St, New York, NY 10026
Watch jazz in a Harlem living room
Every Sunday, for over 10 years, Marjorie Eliot has opened up her Harlem living room to perform soulful jazz concerts for free. Eliot takes turn with her son on the piano, although a number of musicians have been known to join in with her intimate jazz jams. You can’t buy tickets, so get there early – there’s inevitably (and understandably) a lengthy queue come 2pm.
555 Edgecombe Ave #3f, New York, NY 10032
Fly home like a rock star
Leaving New York is never easy, but bow out like a true rock star with Delta’s Porsche service. The airline will take your bags, whizz you past the security and customs queues through to a back entrance where a Porsche will take you to the Delta Club Lounge. Unwind there with a glass of wine, before a member of staff will notify you when your flight is boarding and will again pick you up in the Porsche and drive you across the flight concourse to your flight.
Stay at Loews Regency New York Hotel; rates in the winter can start at $259/night. Annual starting rate is $399. For more information on what New York City has to offer visit Nycgo.com.
